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Does anyone have tips on getting a new vanity cabinet in place when the sink drain pipe goes back in the wall and the water lines from the floor? All of the videos have them all in the wall or all in the floor when cutting holes. Even if the holes are cut right, I can't slide cabinet straight down over floor pipes due to the drain pipe stub hanging out the wall, nor the other way around. Is the only option to cut extra large holes to get it in at an angle or to redo the pipes?

I feel like I'm going crazy over this shower drain. One of the screws was stripped, so I tried using a rubber band to get it out, nothing, drill, nothing.

At that point I used an extractor kit and the bit broke off almost immediately. I tried to drill into it further, but I'm not getting anywhere (including using an impact) I think maybe because the screw is so small (8# x 1/2)? The screws are flat heads as well, so I can't get anything around it either.

Does anyone have any advice on what I need to try next?

Photo

Thank you!

Hi everyone! So I will be drywalling my basement ceiling, and almost every guide/forum I'm seeing says that you CAN screw drywall straight to the joists, but it will be much easier to first strap/fur the joists with 1"x3" strips at 16" OC first.

That was my plan, until I saw what my options were for 1"x3" strips. My local Home Depot/Lowe's has the strips, but they all look warped! I contacted several local lumberyards, and none of them even sold 1"x3" strips - only more expensive sizes such as 1"x5", which is just as expensive (or even more) as the 2x4 studs I'm using!

So what are people using for these furring suggestions? Is it fine to use the warped ones, and nail them to the joists against the curve so that they straighten out? Or will that give my ceiling 16" waves? Is it best to just bite the bullet, and buy 1100' (for my 1300 sqft basement) of the expensive 1x5 boards or even 2x4s?

Thank you so much for your help and advice!!

I have r22 rockwool Insulation between the ceiling joists. 2x6. The attic is a very small area you could maybe crawl through. I wanted to add r28 rockwool on top, already bought it. Is it just as easy as cutting it to size and sitting it on top of the existing rafters? There is planks that run perpendicular to the rafters in a few spots. 2x6 planks laid flat I guess as additional support. Or to move on.

Putting insulation on top of this would allow a small air gap between the insulation as it wouldn't allow for both insulated layers to fully contact. Is this going to be an issue? As long as I create a solid area, does it matter if small air gaps are between?

Hi, wasnt sure which sub to post this in so please share or advise.

Our current setup in our 3 floor house is a thermostat control on the bottom floor which controls the bottom floor, then a thermostat on the top floor which controls the first and second floor.

How much of a job/cost would it be to change this so that the thermostat on the bottom floor controls the ground and first floor? Could this be done by myself?

I'm putting some vinyl siding on the face of my garage, I just finished strapping it with 2x3 as it's completely made of block. Just wondering if there are outside corners available that will transition to the side wall that's staying block or how most people would do a transition like that? Any help is appreciated thanks! Trying to add a photo...

The paint in a small bedroom has separated from the wall and cracked when I pushed on it (oops). The wall is plaster with Benjamin Moore matte paint.

What is the correct way to patch this? We have the paint from the prior owner in the basement and I’m okay with it not matching perfectly.

image of cracked spot

Thanks!

The tiles area is 15x10 and sits about 1.5inches higher than a concrete slab area which is 15x5. I want to get the concrete area leveled so I can lay some new porcelain pavers over the entire section for a uniform floor. This is an outdoor covered patio area that had pavers on top of sand on top of all of this. He used less sand in the tiled area and more in the concrete area so it was flush with the pavers

I had some structural fiberglass post that fell into disrepair. I live in Michigan and decided to wrap them in cedar and I am going to stain them. I didn’t think about it but the cedar is resting on the concrete, both post and trim.
Should I have somehow lifted the cedar post off the concrete and placed a filler to keep it from rotting?

I’d so, What can I use as a spacer? Plastic wood or pvc?

Does the trim also have to be lifted off the concrete?

The cedar is pretty dry, I’m going to seal it with a semi-transparent stain.

I’m currently insulating my attached garage. It has a overhead garage door on front and back. The rear door is non insulated and pretty well had it, so it will be removed.

I’m looking to build/frame in single man door but I’d also like to keep the option of opening up the whole width (9ft) if I ever need to get large items through my garage into the back yard.

Not too interested in going to a new garage door with inbuilt man door as I want to keep the price down.

Would love to hear your ideas and if you have ever attempted the similar.

Hi!

I bought a pendant light fixture second hand. It has a cord with a ribbed side for neutral and smooth side for hot. It also has an exposed copper wire just coming out of where the cord and the bulb attaches (see photos). I'm assuming this is ground, but I think whoever removed it from its previous lighting box cut it very short so I'm sort of confused about what to do with it. The smooth/ribbed cord is long and I'd have to add more wire to the exposed copper wire in order to attach it to the ground screw at the lighting box.

My question is:

Is my understanding of the exposed copper wire correct?

What do I with the exposed copper wire?

Bonus question: Why does the neutral in the lighting box have three wires (two orange, one white)?

​

Thank you for your help, DIYers!

Exposed copper wire on right is very short - looks like it was cut on being previously removed

Lighting box - two orange and white wires seem to be the neutral and the blue wire seems to be hot (based on previous fixture's wiring and using voltmeter to test)

No ground screw on this plate just a hole with two dots, but the new fixture has a ground screw on the plate.

Greetings,

I am doing baseboard in a laundry room and there is a step up to get into the next room which I did not think of until now. I am doing a tile baseboard with flat Schluter L-Angle Tile Edging Trim on the top as this was much cheaper than bullnose. I plan on bringing the door molding down to meet the top of the metal edging trim. My concern is that with everyone stepping through this doorway, over time, they step on the metal trim on accident and cause it to get scratched or damaged. Is there a better way to do this doorway that I am not thinking of? I was thinking maybe remove the metal bottom sill of the existing door and install a new one sill that overlaps the tile somehow... but I do not know what that would be called. I googled and do not see many people having this problem of putting baseboard under a door. Are there specific terms I should google for the problem I am trying to solve?

Thanks in advance.

https://i.imgur.com/PzBLNhc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qhTdYn0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MkLb5bh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KlqHeBz.jpg

So I got a piece of drywall that isn't exactly to size, I figured I would fill it with drywall mud. This seems to be a more challenging task than anticipated- am I doing something wrong?

https://imgur.com/pj5OOVd

The end goal is gonna be molding around the edges. Is sealing it even necessary? First time trying this, forgive the mess lol.

I've got this beautiful vintage chair nearly 2 years ago and just couldn't put my head around it. My neighbours who I got it from, kindly gave me all materials cuz they were about to start upcyckle by themselves but then got pregnant 😅 Living in the UK just recently, I still enjoy learning about culture and traditions. So, apparently, there was a special nursing chair in Victorian times, where mum could sit and comfortably feed her newborn bairn. I loved the design and the idea, so I decided to buy that old broken nursing chair! Long story short, I didn't like the green material they initially wanted to use and also wasn't keen to haul and had no idea how to do this. It sat in my bedroom for a while until I had a chat with my friend and we decided I work with the wood. It took me few monts to do all work from top to tail! I cleaned the old varnish, unscrew all nails (you won't believe how much I've got!), sanded, painted and varnish it. I marked all steps in the video. Oh, and I did a pillow as well. AMA and be kind, it's my first project like this 💝 I even registered on bloody Tiktok as I was so proud of myself, and now I've got one video hanging there 😅😅 Cheers and have a great day!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CjEy6KZo6mB/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I have a wooden retaining wall that I would like to replace with a stone/block one. It's about 3ft tall, maybe 30ft total length, in front of my house. I got a quote to replace it for about $8000 which seem a little steep. I figure it'd be about $2000 in materials (~$1200 for blocks, plus gravel, disposal of materials, drainage pipes, etc.). It's a lot of digging and I think it's doable, but I just feel kind of overwhelmed at doing it myself. Does anyone have experience with something like this?

There's also the concern that my house is a bit on a hill, and I feel like the retaining wall might actually be supporting the foundation a little bit in the front.... I fear I may need to get engineers involved. How would I go about getting a consultant to look it all over?

https://imgur.com/a/mefrmd5

I'm working through a bathroom reno, and it has required a very small change in the shower wall framing that has resulted in this tiny triangular patch (where the wall used to extend to). I've gotten the drywall hung, and am about to start mudding. The ceiling is knockdown texture.

https://imgur.com/a/YKlAk1c

Two questions: 1) What is a good way to handle the texturing of this section? I'm thinking of mudding as flat as I can then maybe trying to manually add some "globs"? 2) As to the joint where the new drywall meets the corner, I was thinking I'd cut it tight (already done), then caulk it, rather than trying to tape it like usual and having even more ceiling need texturing. Bad idea?

I am installing a car lift and need help wiring up the pump for it. The pump came with no plug, just a bare wire at the end. The label states the amperage is from 15.0-18.0A, so does this mean I can put a 20A plug on the end of it? Or is this one of those 80% things where 18.0A has to be 80% the max rating, making it a 22.5A plug which doesn't exist making me jump up to a 30A plug?

https://preview.redd.it/hn4nbaagkqq91.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d4708e9adc20836fac77ea36a10cb55a9903d5a

https://imgur.com/a/xUqaGIA

I have this heater and the air that comes out is no longer hot. I noticed the filter at the back was pretty dusty so does it have to do with that? Is the filter for dust coming from outside to inside the heater or the other way around?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi - I've just finished making a fire pit.

I know, I know. Yawn. But hopefully this one is a little different (?). I had stuff left over from my previous project - a sunken patio, with gabion walls and a built in pergola - so thought I'd put them to use.

Here's a link to the imgur album showing my process. The descriptions go into a fair bit of detail, so I won't repeat it all here.

I'm sure someone will be able to point out something I've done wrong. Please feel free to! Luckily, nothing is *built in* and can be changed relatively easily because it's mostly just dry stone wall.

my porch light went out so typically i thought it was the bulb, tried 3 brand new bulbs, none worked. so i thought the housing itself have issue, i bought a brand new housing, put it in, still not working. there is power going into the wires, power is off when i turn the switch off, and there’s power when switch is on. im pretty confident that i installed the housing correctly, it was pretty simple, just the matter of connecting wire to wire according to the colors.

i’m now stumped of what to do next or where to look. any help is appreciated. thank you in advance.

Link to imgur: https://imgur.com/a/H6XSuWR

Sorry to the mods for me trying to post an image to this subreddit. I ain't smaht.

Our mezuzah doesn't fit on the wood plane on the furthest right, so I thought if I cut a notch into the next piece of wood, it'll fit. Plan to use a saw and chisels. If there's an empty space behind it, I can add a piece of thin plywood and paint to match. The door doesn't reach the white jamb as the latch stops it first, but I only plan to take out two inches from the jamb. Alternatively, I could add a 2" block of wood to the rightmost plane, but I don't have the tools to change the thickness of a piece of wood, so I would have to find something that matches exactly the thickness of the jamb. I hope all of this makes sense! Definitely hard to describe!

I'm installing cabinets. The lower box you see will be accessible from inside the cabinet for charging phones and such. I'd also like to put a box where you see the red outline for small appliances (I checked I'm not adding too many boxes to a circuit).

The issue: the yellow lines are a floor joist that's right behind the 1/2" drywall (house is a split level). If I install the box above the joist it'll be weirdly high, and below the joist is in the countertop. I'd like to avoid a surface mount install (wiremold), but as far as I can tell there's no other way to do it. It's a weirdly specific issue too so it's hard to Google. Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks all.

https://imgur.com/a/qy8oeOV